Swan Lake
Living the dream
Photo Credits: The Blog
A few words to the citizens of planet Earth. In case you weren’t aware, it’s time you should be. Unbeknownst to many, and just a brief scenic ride from Lake Como (scenic like no other I know of), beckons a glimmering, shimmering little paradise. Nestled in a valley cradled by the Alps, bathed in golden light, and richly painted with lush greens—where graceful swans saunter and mingle with the locals…
You may have been to Como. But have you been to Lugano? Located in southern Switzerland, only 15 minutes by car from the northern Italian border, it’s where my husband and I lived for 6 years before moving to Dallas 5 years ago. Last year, for New Years 2023, we decided to reconnect with the dreamlike bubble of a life we once lived. But I experienced more than just a re-experience. I began to see, to feel, everything anew. And it renewed me. I remember thinking everything smelled and tasted better than I’d remembered anything could possibly taste or smell. Being there made me feel as if newborn again, into a better world.
It also dawned on me that in all the 6 years we’d spent there, nearly every day felt like a sunny sunday, or what a sunday should feel like. A walk down the “avenue of pollarded linden” all along the Lugano lakeshore… Perched on the terrace of an outdoor cafe in Piazza della Riforma—sunglasses necessary… An espresso glass coated with homemade chocolate fondant, topped with freshly whipped “panna” cream… People watching, swan-watching… Not a single thought running through our minds… Only the sound of stately swans patting about, rustling their feathers, and randomly honking their vocalizations. No Sunday (or any day posing as a Sunday) could really get any better. And evidently those elegant white side-companions could not have agreed more.
The swans of Lake Lugano are the city’s living emblems, gracing both the streets and the waters, and the locals and tourists with their serene and regal presence. Not confined to the Lake, these graceful creatures wander the city center, poisedly ambling and weaving through this fantasy of a life:
Recommended after an idyllic Sunday (or not Sunday) morning, a stroll to Grand Cafe Al Porto, perhaps for lunch, or a second round of decadent espresso and pastries, or more people-watching:
And later, a visit to Gabbani for an “aperitivo.” For some perfumey red wine, homemade focaccia bread, still warm and glistening with olive oil and fresh rosemary, pungent alpine cheese and paper-thin slices of mortadella perfectly poised, and purring.
Their market of prepared-food, meats, cheese, produce and baked goods is where—weekly—I was always able to buy a piece of “the good life.” Now tell me. Does your market house this cornucopia of delicacies? And does its fare dance with your jugular bliss (“gola,” in Italian)? Those back in Dallas do no such thing for me. No, sadly, they SO do NO such thing.
Anyone heard the Joker’s quote: “Introduce a little anarchy. Upset the established order, and everything becomes chaos. I’m an agent of chaos. And you know the thing about chaos? It’s fair.”
Well here, in Lugano, this is about as much chaos as this town ever gets:
Lugano by night, Christmas holiday time:
During our last visit, we stayed at the Hotel Splendide Royal, a historic five-star hotel founded in 1887, overlooking the lake and the dreamy swans. And here is a bit on the dinner we had at their restaurant, I Due Sud:
Not sure what this appetizer that I photographed was but looking at it now, God how I crave it. I crave to relive it now. One, because romance became us. Two, because of its mysteriousness. Three, because creamy truly IS comforting. And lastly, because some truths are said to be self-evident and this, my Gastronautical friend, is definitely one of them:
All I can remember about this fish entree is that it had a crunchy thing in the middle that made the dish. Mystery yet again:
And here, Javi, the “grazioso”, as they say in Italian.
Next day, replay. Beauty. Romance. Swan camaraderie…
… And more pastry-cruising
I mean…
Perhaps another decadent morning espresso at Cafe Vanini? Perhaps that and a croissant whose outer margin is flakey and whose creamy-gooey-gianduia-injected center is everything indecent, disintegrating instantly as it comes into contact with my heater tongue?
Can I say, a moment like this does complete me. As superficial as that may sound.
And then, our very hard-earned lunch at Bottegone:
A lunch topped off with an unphotographed tiramisu (feeling as we were, very non-judgemental).
So no. No Sunday (or any day posing as a Sunday) could be any better than a day in Lugano.
Once we returned home to Dallas, we binged through all seasons of Succession, quite a calorie-burning business considering its highly sophisticated dialogue. And burned—as I like to think—some of that gianduia-injected pastry from our love-handles.
So yeah, I might not have this fantasy life every day, but it’s nice to know it exists.
And for those of you who haven’t experienced the dream, well, you’ll just have to keep wondering. Until you go. Such is life.
Our favorite spots:
Hotels:
Hotel Splendide Royal
Villa Principe Leopoldo
Hotel Villa Castagnolo
Cafes/ Bakeries/ Markets:
Munger
Cafe vanini
Gabbani
Bio casa
Shopping:
Antonioli
Lunch:
Grand Cafe Al Porto
Al Faro
Bottegone
Castello del Sole (in Ascona)
Ristorante La Palma
Dinner:
I Due Sud
Motto Dell Gallo
Al Faro
Bottegone
Dinner at Villa Principe Leopoldo
Le Relais
Swan, Swung, Swank
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