The Name is Don Javi

A sartorially suave gentleman’s breakdown of the how-tos and who does it best
Photo Credits: Hubbo (Aka Don Javi)
August 1, 2023

What is it about a Spanish gent’s style (think Julio Iglesias) that is so timeless, richly masculine, distincty upper-class, and magnetically sexy? What are the ways of gentlemanly refinement? To embody the look of a don of debonair, a doyen of dapperness, and a master of all that is soigné, a man must utilize varied instruments of sartorial suavity.

Don Javi breaks it down to “who does it best”:

The Editoriall by Just One for bespoke
Aspesi or Loro Piana for single-breasted traveller jackets
Battistoni for shirts
Charvet and Marinella for ties
Rubinacci,Sunspelor Al Bazar (Milan) for fitted polo shirts
Cesare Atolini or Rubinacci for suits
Turnbull & Asser for a crisp pocket handkerchief

The jacket is especially instrumental in achieving a sartorially suave look, so let’s dive deeper into those special details to look for in a sartorial jacket:

• A jacket made with solaro fabric lends an ultimately modern look. “Solaro” is a particular type of worsted wool fabric, identifiable for its distinct iridescent quality. At first glance, it reads as one color but shifting angles, you’ll notice various colors within the palette. What makes this fabric so unique is the iridescent nature in which the colors appear and disappear depending on how the light hits it. These subtle flashes of color are sure to draw attention to a solaro-clad “Caballero”.

• Bird’s Eye is a casual evening fabric for the young modern cool-cat “chaval.” Grey is especially elegant.

• A jacket made of mohair and wool, natural shoulders, jetted pockets, double vents and understated lapels is unfailingly elegant, in colors such as light gray or navy and brown. Mohair suitings were trendy in the 1960s and still carry a smart and sharp look for a true “Señor.”

• For a more dramatic look, a jacket in linen, gray flannel with or without a chalk stripe, or dark brown houndstooth with more exaggerated peaked lapels—always with double vents and side square pockets—will beat the look “si o si” every time.

• With a jacket in Prince of Wales either in black and white or black and gray, a “Galan” can never go wrong. Also called the Glenn check, there are many varieties, from a traditional twill-weave Glen Urquhart check to a lightweight plain weave to a subtle glen hopsack check. For business and daytime social events, Prince of Wales also works suavely as a three-piece suit with a vest.

• A Tom Ford-style velvet blazer in chocolate or dark green will draw compliments to “El Guapo” near and far. The color is key. Everyone thinks of velvet in black or navy but to steer from the norm and surprise is what magnetizes.

• A jacket made of Vicuna—produced exclusively in Peru by Loro Piana— is the ultimate in luxury and well worth a Don Juan’s investment.

• And lastly, a faux-pas according to our galant Don Javi is to wear the classic tuxedo jacket. It can have the tendency to appear less effortless, less interesting.

LESSER KNOWN BUT HIGHLY CREDIBLE BRANDS TO CHECK OUT FOR OPTIMAL “CHAQUETAS”:

THE ARMOURY

SEASE

KIRED

BARENA

SUITSUPPLY

LANIFICIO COLOMBO

PINI PARMA

Under the perfect jacket must go the perfect collared shirt, polo or t-shirt of course. Four well-priced brands that offer a perfect shirt, polo and t-shirt are Cordone, Pini Parma, Massimo Duti and Sunspel.

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